Katherine Gorge, Edith Falls, Bitter Springs and Mataranka are as well known as the Territory gets, and in July you share them. We spent four days finding out whether they are still worth it, and where the quiet is hiding.

The Pilbara has a way of pulling you back. This leg of our half lap of Australia took us through the west of the region, starting with campfire cooking at Pannawonica Hill before a sunset scramble to Nature's Window. Things didn't quite go to plan from there, but every wrong turn led us somewhere worth finding. We ended up at George Gorge with sheer red cliffs, clear water and a camp spot we didn't want to leave. The Pilbara always delivers.