Barrington Tops National Park: When Plans Go Sideways (And That's OK)
- Adventure Lifestyle
- Jan 4
- 7 min read
G'day! Ever had one of those trips where absolutely nothing goes to plan but you end up having a cracker time anyway? That was our experience in Barrington Tops National Park. Between intercooler leaks, closed tracks, and weather that couldn't make up its mind, this leg of our East Coast adventure tested our 'go with the flow' philosophy to the max.
The Journey Begins: Blatherarm Campground
We kicked off this leg from the Sunshine Coast, heading south to Blatherarm campground in Torrington State Conservation Area. Beautiful spot - little stream running alongside, kangaroos everywhere, and that perfect national parks vibe with picnic tables, fire pits, and fresh water (boil or treat it first). At $6 per person per night booking fee, it's an absolute bargain.
The plan was simple: coffee, breakfast, then a 6-kilometer round trip hike to Ugly Corner Falls. Spoiler alert - the falls aren't ugly at all.
Roadside Drama: Death Wobbles and Caravan Chaos
Before we even made it to camp, we witnessed something wild. The ute and caravan in front of us started getting the death wobbles - and it escalated fast. Off the road, back on the road, off again, and then the caravan actually overtook the ute before flipping completely upside down with the back of the ute high in the air.
We pulled over immediately to check on the driver - thankfully he was completely fine, no injuries. We managed traffic until some tradies heading home from a job showed up with proper flashing lights and took over. Just a reminder that towing requires serious respect, proper equipment, and understanding your vehicle's limits.
Ugly Corner Falls: A Hidden Gem
The hike to Ugly Corner Falls was absolutely worth it. Short but sweet - all downhill on the way in (which means all uphill on the way out), with plenty of exploring to do around the rocks and waterfalls when you get there. The water level was low when we visited, which meant you could really get into the nooks and crannies.
We found some cracking little swimming holes, climbed partway up the waterfall, and discovered a nice pool tucked into a crevice. Water was pretty cold, but on a warmer day, this would be an epic spot for a proper swim. Definitely pack a towel if you're planning to visit.
Plot Twist: The Intercooler Leak
Here's where our plans started to unravel. Somewhere between Glen Innes and Armidale, on one of the big climbs, Karleah's Hilux temperature gauge went much higher than it ever had before. We pulled over and discovered the intercooler was leaking oil - something we'd actually noticed back at camp but hoped would hold out.
Barrington Tops would have to wait. We diverted to Armidale and ended up staying the night at the showgrounds ($25 a night, $30 for powered sites - great amenities). Got in contact with Armidale Toyota who organized an intercooler to be sent up from Sydney overnight.
The repair the next morning was surprisingly painless, and we were back on the road by just after 10:00. Barrington Tops: take two.
Little Murray Campground: Up in the Clouds
The drive into Little Murray Campground was absolutely epic. Windy, climbing, climbing, and more climbing - we went seriously high. The last time Karleah had attempted this drive was about 15 years ago in an old converted Mazda van, and she'd blown the head gasket on the way up and then cooked the brakes on the way down. Given our recent intercooler dramas, making it with no cooling issues felt like a proper win.
The campground itself is beautiful - big grassy area with plenty of wildlife and feral horses roaming around. We woke up to brumbies trotting through camp, playing and rolling in the grass. Sure, they're technically pests, but they're still pretty cute. First time either of us had seen wild horses up close like that.
Hot tip: If you keep going another 50 meters down the track on the left, there's a massive single campsite that's nice and secluded away from everyone else. We would've stayed there if we'd known about it.
Barrington Tops Closed Tracks and Changed Plans
With the sun finally making an appearance (after being smashed with clouds since we arrived), we set off to explore. The plan was to trek south through the national park toward Ladies Well where there are a bunch of free camps.
No joy. Trail closed ahead.
We checked the maps trying to work out alternative routes, but everything heading south seemed to be locked up. Half a dozen vehicles had gone down that track before us, and every single one turned around. We weren't massively keen to climb all the way down the mountain range and back up again from the south, we decided to stick to exploring the northern section.
Barrington Trail: Cruising in First Gear
The Barrington Trail itself was pretty cool - lots of hairpin turns, nice steep winding tracks, nothing too crazy. Just first gear in high range, ticking along, enjoying the drive with the windows down and coffee in hand. It's the kind of driving that reminds you why you built touring rigs in the first place.
We ended up at Junction Pools Campground at the end of the Barrington Trail. The Barrington River there is stunning - Paul reckoned it would be a really nice place in summer. Karleah had to point out that it currently was summer. Didn't feel like it though.
There didn't seem to be any obvious way to get to the south of the park from Junction Pools - just gnarly-looking backside tracks and a lot of closed, locked gates. So we headed back north to check out the spots we'd originally planned to visit.
Dilgry River: The Final Camp
Our last campsite of this leg was at Dilgry River - a really nice little spot right next to the water. The original campsite we'd booked (Gummi Falls) was only accessible via dry weather track, which was closed (probably should've paid more attention to the Hema map that said 'dry weather only'). Would be helpful if you couldn't book sites when the access track is closed, but anyway.
The scenery at Dilgry River was unreal - honestly looked like tropical North Queensland with all the ferns and lush vegetation. Having fires in summer is a bit of a novelty for us West Australians, so we made the most of it and cooked up some nachos over the coals.
Thunderbolts Lookout: The Perfect Send-Off
On our final morning, we got up early and headed to Thunderbolts Lookout - just a quick drive from camp and a snappy little walk to the viewpoint. Overnight, all the clouds had finally cleared, giving us the epic mountain views we'd been hoping for all along.
After two days of complete overcast conditions, seeing Barrington Tops in full sunshine was the perfect way to wrap up this section of the trip.
The Reality of Travel
Look, this wasn't the Barrington Tops trip we'd planned. We arrived a day late thanks to mechanical issues. We couldn't get through to most of the places we'd hoped to visit because of weather and closed tracks. Our carefully researched campsite bookings didn't work out.
But that's the reality of travel in Australia. Weather changes. Tracks close. Vehicles break down. You adapt, you find Plan B (and Plan C, and Plan D), and you make the most of what you've got.
We still saw wild horses, stunning waterholes, epic mountain scenery, and drove some brilliant tracks. We fixed the Hilux ourselves with help from a country Toyota dealer. We found alternative campsites that turned out to be just as good as the originals. And we've got a solid excuse to come back and explore the southern sections we missed.
Practical Info for Your Visit
Blatherarm Campground (Torrington State Conservation Area):
$6 per person per night booking fee
Picnic tables, fire pits, fresh water (must be boiled/treated)
Great base for Ugly Corner Falls hike
Ugly Corner Falls:
6km return hike
All downhill in, all uphill out
Swimming holes available when water levels are low
Pack a towel and proper footwear
Little Murray Campground:
Epic drive in - windy, steep, high altitude
Large grassy area, feral horses common
Hidden single campsite 50m down track on left
Check track conditions before heading south
Barrington Trail:
Scenic drive, not technical
First gear high range suitable
Junction Pools at southern end
Check for track closures before planning routes
General Tips:
Many tracks are 'dry weather only' - pay attention to Hema notes if you've got it
Weather can close routes quickly
Book campsites in advance but have backup plans
Mobile coverage is limited throughout the park
Vehicle Considerations:
High clearance helpful but not essential for main trails
Some tracks require 4WD
Watch vehicle temperatures on long climbs
Carry recovery gear and spares
What's Next
From Barrington Tops, we headed south to tackle the Victorian High Country - a destination that's been on our list for years. After the wet, closed tracks of Barrington, we were hoping for clearer conditions and open routes. See more on our visit to the VHC here.
But if there's one thing this trip taught us, it's that the best adventures rarely go exactly to plan. And honestly? That's half the fun.
Watch the full video on our YouTube channel to see the caravan flip, the intercooler repair, the wild horses, and all the moments that didn't make it into this write-up. And if you've explored Barrington Tops, drop a comment and let us know what we missed - we'll be back to tick off those southern trails.
See you on the road,
Paul & Karleah
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